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20 July 2006
The Sweet Smell Of
Success
Perfume has recently
become hijacked by the cult of celebrity. And it's no
wonder. Of all the exquisite smells perfume gives off, it's
the one of money that's the strongest.
"The painter learns to
see, the pianist learns to listen, I learned to smell," says
French perfumer Jean Claude Ellena, who by his own reckoning
took 20 years to master his craft. "It's a question of the
brain, not of the nose, and you learn it simply by
experience. Everyone can smell everything I can smell, but
they don't know how to understand it, distinguish the
elements, or how to speak about it. That's why I'm a
perfumer."
So it's probably safe to
say that neither Celine Dion nor Britney Spears, both of
whom were said to be involved in 'every step' of their
signature scents had much to do with the actual making of
them. The scents sold by fashion houses such as Donna Karan
and Christian Dior aren't made by Donna Karan and Christian
Dior, and Estee Lauder, long celebrated for her perfumes,
didn't make her scents herself either - they were all
created by perfumers. Even Coco Chanel's enduring No. 5
wasn't made by her - in fact, it was called No. 5 for the
simple reason that it was the fifth option that her
perfumers offered her.
Britney's first scent,
Curious, is marketed by Elizabeth Arden and described
variously as 'clean', 'summery', 'fresh', 'subtle', 'sweet'
and 'sexy' it certainly seems to have covered all the
possible Britney bases.
Grab Some For
Yourself
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Celebrity
Sells
Whatever the actual extent
of these stars' involvement in the development of their
signature smells, the fact is: celebrity sells scent. That's
why Christian Dior employs actress Charlize Theron as a
spokeswoman for it's phenomenally successful J'adore and
Nicole Kidman signed on to promote No. 5. It's why Beyonce,
launched her on fragrance, True Star and Jessica Simpson
came out with Deliciously Kissable.
And it gets even more
obvious. Socialite Paris Hilton's fragrance is called,
originally, Paris Hilton; Stella McCartneys fragrance is
simply Stella and Jenifer Lopez most recent fragrance is
Still Jennifer Lopez. Even Barbie has her own perfumed,
named. rather unimaginatively 'Barbie.'
Even B List celebrities
are in on the act. Survivor all star Rob Mariano (Boston
Rob) is peddling his own fragrance , Foreman, a reference to
his pre Survivor job.
Purists deplore this slide
into commercialism. They point out that these scents
represent only marketing teams' immediate sense of the
cultural pulse, and have nothing to do with history,
tradition or craftsmanship. But that's not what the modern
perfume industry is all about. Today what counts is the
amount of cash a scent makes.
But creating a scent is an
expensive gamble, and the number of failures greatly exceeds
the number of successes. Some recent big name disasters
include Champs Elysees by Guerlain, C'est la vie by
Christian Lacroix and Kingdom by Alexander
McQueen.
And even naming a scent
for a celebrity is no guarantee that a perfume will take
off. Failed celebrity fragrances of the past few years
include the Olsen Twins, Elton John and Shaquille O'Neil.
Success, says scientist Branson Dray, depends on three
ingredients: "You need an appealing scent and a star with a
following, but that audience has to want to smell like that
star."
Still, when it works, it
really works. Celine Dion's range of scents have earned her
an estimated $10 million and Jennifer Lopez first perfume
Glow, has already passed the $80 million mark.
Fine perfumes may contain
more than 100 ingredients. Each perfume is composed of a top
note (the refreshing, volatile odour perceived immediately),
a middle note (providing the full, solid character) and an
end note (generally the most consistent).
What's That You're
Wearing?
Can't smell the difference
between perfume, eau e toilette and cologne? Here's a
guide:
- Perfume contains the
highest amount of fragrance concentration and the least
amount of alcohol. It's the purest form of fragrance and
the most expensive.
- Eau de parfum is the
most popular and common form of fragrance. It's long
lasting and doesn't cost as much as perfume.
- Eau de toilette has a
lighter scent that doesn't last as long as perfume or eau
de parfum.
- Eau de cologne is the
most diluted fragrance.
Smell Your
Best
Perfume.com offer an
amazing selection of high quality perfumes including Estee
Lauder, Hugo Boss, Cartier and many more at discounted
prices. Click
here to visit Perfume.com
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